Boiler cleading

Hi all

Just wondered if anyone has cut their boiler cleading into smaller parts to fit it around the boiler,and if they have,has it worked.

Any advice would be very helpful,thanks

Tony

HI TONY, STEVE WAS GOING TO FITTING THE CLADDING IN ONE PIECE ONCE THE CLACK STUDS HAD BEEN CUT DOWN ON THE CONTROL MODEL, SO WE OURSELVES ARE WAITING TO HEAR THE OUTCOME OF THAT, BEFORE DOING ANYTHING FURTHER WITH OUR CLADDING YET. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK THAN WE WILL HAVE TO LOOK AT CUTTING IT INTO PIECES.

REGARDS
BRUCE

Hi Bruce

Thanks for that,I shall wait for advice from above.

cheer's Tony

Am I missing something, My cladding fits well without any cutting but then again I havn't fitted the horn plates. I can see that it is a problem with the hornplates fitted. I am also assuming that the cladding will not have to be removed in the future. I am still in a position that I could cut the cladding if future removal is required. Any advice please Steve.

JDA

Hi all

I've taken the brave move of cutting my boiler cleading to fit it after having a chat with Steve

I cut it behind the clack valve holes and now I can fit it around the boiler with relative ease see photo below


As you can see I'm going to have to paint it all again but I think it was worth it

There's also a couple more photo's in the 2" gallery

cheer's for now

Tony

HI TONY, THANKS FOR THAT INFO, I SHOULD HAVE READ THIS BIT BEFORE I LOOKED AT YOUR PHOTOS, AND POSTED THE QUESTION YOUV'E JUST ANSWERED HERE
I THINK WE WILL NOW GO THAT ROUTE AS WELL.
DON'T SEEM TO BE GETTING AS MUCH TIME TO 'PLAY' AT THE MOMENT AS WE'ED LIKE, STILL GOT TO FIT OUR CRANK YET !

REGARDS
BRUCE

Brave move Tony, hope you manage to secure the back part of your cleading OK as there doesn't appear to be much to hold the top nearest the back end down to keep it all in line. Does the front spectacle plate hold it down?

Steve was suggesting that when the clack valves are fitted and the studs cut down the cleadings should fit, I have looked at the old Modelworks brochure and they dont mention which kit they come with so I assume they are either kit 21 or 22. That's a long time to wait to see if the cleading will fit and by then all the diff gear should be fitted and it would involve an enormous amount of work to strip it all down to remove the hornplates to allow the cleading to fit! It would be useful if these valves were fitted to the control model so that we can be given the exact length of the studs and cut them down in readiness.

I have tentatively tried to remove the studs for the clack valves but they wont budge, am wondering how they are fitted and also why already. It would resolve the problem if they could be removed.

If all else fails I will resort to fitting the cleading early and hoping it doesn't get scratched, I know that it will scratch the cylinder block sides in any event as it is such a tight fit.

What's everyone else doing about this problem?


Alan

P.S. No Kit 16B Friday Hoping it's delivered Monday

On the 4" the back section would be in one piece. It is held in place solely by the boiler band. After 3 years mine has shown no sign of movement and I suspect if I tried to remove it I would find that it had stuck itself to the cork.

If the back sections could be joined together before fitting it could be made to work much the same as the 4". I think I would loose the long thin strip that goes under the boiler.

AL DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE STUDS THEY ARE SILVER SOLDERED IN !! STEVE TOLD ME THAT WHEN I PICKED UP OUR BOILER AT DORSET.
I WAS HOPING FOR SOME FEED BACK FROM STEVE AS TO HIS FINDINGS WITH THE CONTROL MODEL STUDS BY NOW. KNOW HE IS VERY BUSY.

REGARDS
BRUCE

Hi Al

Sorry about the delay in answering but just had the week from hell (lost job,car engine let go along way from home!)

As a result I have a bit more time to play with "The Other Woman"

When I first spoke to Steve about the cleading he did say that the clack valve studs would have to be cut off to 6mm at some point,so that would help,but I'm not prepared to do that yet.

The rear part of the cleading is held together by the manhole cover and the boiler band,I did countersink the base of the manhole cover where it sat high on a boiler stay so it sat flush to the boiler.

I've also cut the 2 thin strips off the underside of the cleading,it now fits a lot better around the boiler.

I'm going to fit the weighshaft bracket permanently to the boiler before final fit of the cleading so that any filing around the block and bracket can be done.

If you haven't painted your cleading yet,you might find a couple of 150mm jubilee clips come in handy to help hold things together.

I hope this helps you to come to a decision,but like I said in an earlier post,I think its the way foward

Are there any other builders with an insight to this,any help will help all

cheer's for now Tony

Hi everyone

I know you've all been waiting a long time about answers to the potential cladding problem. No answers yet, but we've eventually got round to removing ours late last week. We kept all our control model together for such a long time because we were waiting for a 'proper' boiler we could use rather than the prototype one fitted. As we wanted to test out the components for kit 16A & B, we had to choose our time carefully. Anyway, I should be able to post some news about the cladding by the end of this week.

The reason why the studs were fitted as part of the boiler construction is that we couldn't stop the threads being filled with silver solder, looks like we solved one problem and created another. More news later in the week.

Regards

Steve & Dean

TONY,
VERY SORRY TO HEAR ABOUT YOUR JOB, THINGS ARE S**T FOR BUSINESS AT THE MOMENT, COMPARED TO LAST FEW YEARS.
CARS A PROB TOO !
ALL I SEEM TO HAVE HEARD THIS YEAR IS PEOPLE HAVING AGRO DURING THIS YEAR (WE'VE HAD PROBS IN ALL ASPECTS OF OUR LIFE THIS YEAR) LETS HOPE 2009 BRINGS A TURN OF BETTER LUCK FOR ALL.
ALL THE VERY BEST IN SEEKING EMPLOY.

REGARDS
BRUCE

Hi everyone.

Right, I 've actually spent a bit of time looking at the problem of fitting the cladding after the hornplates have been fitted. I cut the clack valve studs down to around 10mm which is still too long, but better to be safe than sorry. The cladding will fit quite easily if you remove around 10mm from either side where the cladding goes horizontally along the inside of the hornplates. Each boiler will vary slightly, so I would first remove around 6mm and try it, then remove a bit more until it fits so you don't end up with a big gap between the hornplates and the cladding.

The alternative is to do what Tony has done. Both solutions appear to work equally as well.

Regards

Steve

I did as Steve suggested and removed 10mm from the cleading along with cutting the clack valve studs down to 10mm.

On my boiler it did fit, but it will trash the paintwork still if not very very careful.

I hadn't fitted the weightshaft when I first tried it and still managed to trash the front edges of the hornplates and had to be very careful where it came close to the cylinder block. The left hand cleading is even worse to fit because of the steering rod lower bearing on the hornplate, the top bolt holding the bearing in place protrudes slightly but enough the gouge the paint on the cleading as you try and fit it. It's all still very tight and when I tried fitting them with the weightshaft bracket on it had even tighter clearances. Those studs on the clack valves are indeed the problem but I will persevere and see how it goes after they are cut to the correct length. If it's still tight I will revert to plan B and copy Bruce's method.

Anyone else got similar problems?

Alan

I have decided to fit, remove and paint then refit the cladding befor i attach the horne plates to the boiler. is this a good idea? Jon