Boiler cladding

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Boiler cladding

Post  hudmut on Sun 09 Oct 2011, 6:36 am

I'm having a hard time trying to work out what the to tab's are for on the rear peace of cladding the one with the man hole in it. Am i meant to cut the band as well as the cladding so that the band will go round the barrel because at this moment in time I'm lost given to pins id cut them of and forget about the 2 tab's. So can some one supply me with a image of how they have there band fitted to clear this all up in my head because once i have this one last item all sorted out i can start fitting all my painted parts as I'm getting bother now for all the parts stuck in holes around the house.

Iv added a image in so you can see what I'm moaning about



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Re: Boiler cladding

Post  tef 20 on Sun 09 Oct 2011, 8:05 am

On my old Burrell (batch 1) I left tab on but trimmed the edge of the tab so the band still fitted up to the firebox and caught the top of the sheet with the man hole cut out in it.

I noticed you have the allen key headed bolt in one of the hornplate mounting holes, dont use this we got replacement bolts for this as with the allen headed bolt you couldnt get them tight enough just ended up using a normal hex headed bolt.


Not sure if you can see it in this picture as i painted the tag black the same as the horn plate.




Cheers
Mark

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Re: Boiler cladding

Post  bjwlancashire on Mon 27 Feb 2012, 3:03 pm

tef 20 wrote:I noticed you have the allen key headed bolt in one of the hornplate mounting holes, dont use this we got replacement bolts for this as with the allen headed bolt you couldnt get them tight enough just ended up using a normal hex headed bolt.
Cheers
Mark

Hi Mark

I came acfross your comment by chance and it got me concerned. I have changed the hex headed bolts on my road loco for dome shaped allen bolts to look like large rivets. How tight do these need to be?? Did you have problems once the engine was warm? Did the horn plates slip during building or testing?

Cheers

Brian

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Hornplates

Post  Steve Traill on Mon 27 Feb 2012, 3:20 pm

This was a problem with the very first engines, it came about with the holes in the hornplates being made slightly bigger than nesessary to allow for any slight variation in the boilers. The result was that some movement between the boiler & hornplates did happen and you knew when as the gauge glass cracked as one end was fixed to the boiler & the other to the hornplates. The solution was to use hex headed bolts instead of the domed allen key types as a greater torque can be applied to these and therefore reducing the chance of movement.

What I do as a further precaution when the engine is virtually finished, remove each bolt one at a time and degrease, apply a collar of JB Weld to the top part of the bolt. Clean any paint away from the bolt hole in the hornplate and screw the bolt back in. The JB Weld can handle the heat and takes any slack out of the hole.

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Re: Boiler cladding

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