Rob & Tash Showmans

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Mon 10 Apr 2017, 7:40 pm

Coming together nicely. Not a great deal will be done now before it visits Twyford Waterworks in a couple of weeks (7th May all being well). Other jobs to do now to facilitate transporting her. I would like to get the diagonal barley twists polished and fitted to the front though if I get a chance.


Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  LiveSteam on Mon 10 Apr 2017, 8:32 pm

Looking forward to seeing you and the engine at the Waterworks.

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  JayBee on Mon 10 Apr 2017, 8:41 pm

Can't make the May outing but keep us all informed because I am sure that there are a few of use who want to see here in the flesh as it were.
John

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Mon 10 Apr 2017, 8:58 pm

JayBee wrote:Can't make the May outing but keep us all informed because I am sure that there are a few of use who want to see here in the flesh as it were.
John

I'll keep all posted on where it will be and when. It's also booked into Twyford on the 2nd July for the miniature steam event.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  JayBee on Mon 10 Apr 2017, 9:01 pm

That's excellent I will try and make that one if possible.
John

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  PaulC on Tue 11 Apr 2017, 6:54 am

Steve Traill wrote:Most people I know go & buy an LSM (or similar) ratchet one and put the STW one in a drawer.  The ratchet ones are bullet proof and like the full size.  Same with the steam valves for the injector & water lifter, R A Barker does them with PTFE seats which don't tighten up when hot.

Sorry to go off topic, can anyone post a link to the LSM Lubricator, steam valves for injector and water lifter I would need for an SCC please.

I'm new and due to start my SCC build in June, whilst I realise I may not need this for a long while it was mentioned some of the parts were out of stock when they needed them and I would like to get them in early so im not delayed later on.

Kind Regards
Paul

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Tue 11 Apr 2017, 8:10 am

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Steve H on Tue 11 Apr 2017, 8:28 am

Looking good there Rob,very impressed.
Steve H Very Happy
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  PaulC on Tue 11 Apr 2017, 8:29 am

Thanks Rob. Good looking showman you are building, keep up the good work.

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 4:14 pm

Well a disappointing day.   Had the boiler inspector visit today to carry out the hydraulic test, which it passed.  When we came to the steam test we were able to test the pump which worked ok this time, but we couldn't get the pressure above 100psi under steam to test the injector or the safety valves.   I'm still plagued with the pressure problem.  

It seems to be a problem with the regulator letting by, so when it's cooled down its got to come apart for a coat of looking at, it's also got a leak from the staring valve.   The flywheel is also loose again so I'll make another key for it.  More jobs to do over the next few weeks and try again.

There is a steep learning  curve and it's getting ever steeper, still I'll get there in the end.    

Upward and onward.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  JayBee on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 5:55 pm

Don't give up Rob you will delighted when you get it steaming properly. The feeling of one step forward and 3/4 back is very frustrating (and we understand) but at least there is some progress with the hydraulic test done.

Good luck

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  lynnr on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 6:10 pm

Hi Rob.

Take the starter valve out. Polish the spindle of the ball and rod. Also round off the end somewhat. This will help with closing. I got mine set to a full steam seal.

If you want to call me for a chat. I can be more interactive
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 7:14 pm

Thanks Lynn, I may just do that.  

My lack of knowledge is starting to frustrate me somewhat, making it difficult to solve the problems quickly and easily. Especially as it's coupled with a lack of time at the moment.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 7:38 pm

This may be a daft question but I'm going to ask it anyway.  

On the regulator rod there is the brass block, this has a spring in the bottom that pushes the puck down onto the stainless steel plate which inturn  covers the hole when closed, if that makes sense.

As we can't get above 100 psi is is possible the spring is not strong enough to hold the pressure back, allowing it past.  or does it work the other way round and rather than steam coming up as I thought does the steam go down it, and steam pressure should hold it closed?
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Mark the spark on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 8:21 pm

Hi Rob
Once there is pressure it pushes the puck down

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  lynnr on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 8:48 pm

There is NO daft questions on this forum.

The port from the block is front left in the regulator cavity.

The puck is pushed down on to the port by the steam. The puck needs to be very flat indeed. To the point that if you put a little drop of water between it will effectively glue the puck to the plate. Also make sure the edges of the puck are sharp and square.

The spring is just to give the initial push down. Also make sure the block on the regulator rod is free to move in the slot of the puck.

You can for testing put a gasket before the starter valve and block it off completely.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  made-in-england on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 9:16 pm

Hi Rob,

That's disappointing. I know your frustrations.. If you need a hand, give us a shout. My good friend Andy will be keen to cast an eye over it.. He's a precision engineer by trade and has been building and rebuilding steam engines most of his life.. He's always keen for a bit of problem solving!

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 10:02 pm

Thanks all, I've stripped it down tonight and will go back and relap the puck and plate during the week.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Kiwiconnection on Sat 29 Jul 2017, 10:22 pm

Rob
You will need to spend some time lapping the puck to the plate. I spent best part of the day going through the range of Timesaver compounds from 40n to 100n. You need to have a completely flat face between puck and plate. Both should stick together without any oil on either surface. It was a very long day but worth it in the end. I also fitted a stronger spring in the starting valve.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  LiveSteam on Sun 30 Jul 2017, 11:38 am

Oh thats a shame Rob Crying or Very sad

So I assume as the regs letting by the engines always running unless you notch the valve gear to neutral ?

Surprised you cannot get her over 100 mind, must be letting buy a fair amount.

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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  sonick45 on Mon 07 Aug 2017, 10:04 pm

I lit a fire in my engine a few days ago for the first time and has the same passing regulator when fully shut.

I had polished both faces to a near mirror finish so was baffled by the issue.

When I removed the safeties for a look I eventually noted a very minute rise in the puck when fully shut off.

What I discovered was one of the two rear bolts fixing the bottom steel plate to the block was protruding at the leading edge by a fraction. Enough to let high pressure steam past. There was also a tiny tick as the puck touched this bolt when the regulator was moved. Since fixing this the regulator moves much smoother and hopefully when I next steam will have improved the problem.

If you are still having issues with passing by i would have a look at the retaining bolts. It appears the cause was the steel. Plate not being counter sunk dead square so the bolt was screwed in tight but was just above the plate face by a miniscule amount.

Regards
Nick
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Kiwiconnection on Mon 07 Aug 2017, 10:55 pm

Ooops, I forgot to say that I also found that the countersinks needed deepening and cleaning up when I fitted the regulator. Generally when assembling the engine I put a tap or drill through every hole prior to assembly, and cleaned up all the countersunk holes. Not many but a few actually benefitted this time consuming action. The whole assembly fitted very easily once this was achieved.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  Robfishman on Mon 07 Aug 2017, 11:13 pm

Thanks guys, I think I've found the problem which was caused by my mistake.  In the haste to get the modification done and the modification kit sent back I failed to lap the stainless steel plate.  Having started I can see this will be a major contributor.  

I've also not bolted mine down, but bonded it to the cylinder, was a pig to get back out and clean up.  It's out and cleaned up.   Once lapped in I'll refit and fix down, watching that I don't have that same issues as you have had. I may be some time....


More lapping required. by Robert R&N, on Flickr
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  lynnr on Tue 08 Aug 2017, 7:58 am

Hi Rob

Do the plate first on wet n dry on a glass panel, i used a mirror. get it very flat using a figure of eight motion and turning the part round in you fingers to even out the pressure. Do the same for the puck. I got mine to a high polish and when I put the smallest drop of water on the puck it would "stick" to the plate very well.

Interesting to see all these plates screwed down. Mine is just in with JB weld and has done hundreds of hours with no issues what so ever.
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Re: Rob & Tash Showmans

Post  sonick45 on Thu 31 Aug 2017, 11:49 am

Rob,

Did you sort the passing regulator problem?

I have steamed twice now and both times the regulator was passing badly.
The puck and plate have been highly polished so I cant think this the issue however the plate has not been bonded to the block but just screwed down with graphite sealant underneath.

I am going to look at the starter valve first and then bond the plate to the block.

I was just curious weather you had found what the problem was to possibly save some time.

Your engine looks fabulous.

Cheers
Nick
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