cylinder block rear cover

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cylinder block rear cover

Post  elwood-59 on Sun 11 Feb 2018, 1:13 am

Hi,

question to those who have already passed that stage. My cylinder block is of the 2 part design, with rear cover to be bolted to the block instead of being cast in one piece as seems to have been the case for first batch?!?

Been playing with my cylinder block and try-assembled it to check fit of rear cover. Noticed that the surface of the rear cover, being milled, does look different to the rest of the (cast) cylinder. And idea how to disguse that? How did you tackle this? Same with the area on top of the boiler where the (as I assume) separation line of the two casting mold halves were. A bit unsightly, but maybe only to me as I know it

Cheers

Elwood
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  Simon C on Sun 11 Feb 2018, 8:05 am

Hi Elwood
On my cylinder block i used filler on the rear plate as suggested in the instructions, once painted you could see the difference in the surfaces I also thought it wasn't a good look. the good news is that as the build progresses with the gland followers the parallel motion the cross heads and the weigh shaft bracket you wont be able to see much of that face of the block.
Further on still and a drip tray and motion guards will get fitted also helping to obscuring the back of the block.
As for the casting at the boiler the cladding comes roughly to the upper edge of the flange so again most of this area should also be obscured.
If all else fails to convince you then remember that the full sized engines had cast blocks with surface imperfections in them and a good paint job can disguise many sins.
Simon (a full roofer)
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  elwood-59 on Mon 12 Feb 2018, 8:51 am

Hi Simon,

Looks like I am searching the fly in the ointment again Embarassed , I was looking at the block with the cover attached and it stood out like a sore thumb. I’ve been checking my pictures of other machines and could find a lot of views but none (so far) that showed this area.

Will give it a thought.

Thanks

Elwood
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  elwood-59 on Mon 12 Feb 2018, 4:36 pm

Hi Simon,

One thing more: did you mount the cover before or after mounting block to boiler? And did you use the Steam Seal as sealant and JB weld as filler as per instructions or what did you use?

Thanks

Elwood
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  Steve Traill on Mon 12 Feb 2018, 7:08 pm

By the time the engine is up & running the slight difference in texture will hardly be noticeable amongst all the other bits that bolt to the rear of the block. You could use a mini flap wheel to smooth out the rest of the block and reduce the cast effect even further and a good coating of soot & steam oil will further mask the difference! Just be glad you have a block that will work! the failure rate of the one-piece blocks was horrific and 2 hours to remove a block & two days to put one back is work no-one needs.
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  Simon C on Mon 12 Feb 2018, 7:31 pm

HI Steve
I would rather not imagine removing the block studs, let alone all the other furniture nightmare on a sunny day!
Elwood
the cover was mounted, sealed with steam seal, filled using P38 and sprayed black before mounting on the boiler.
I did cheat a little with the trial fit as i used bolts to check the alignment of all the holes, block to boiler, less fiddly that way.

Thinking back i did experiment with P38 texturing it by stippling with a nail brush to create a sand cast look, it was reasonably successful if i caught it just as it started to turn but the timing of this proved to be far and away too difficult so i gave in.
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  sonick45 on Mon 12 Feb 2018, 7:50 pm

Steve Traill wrote:By the time the engine is up & running the slight difference in texture will hardly be noticeable amongst all the other bits that bolt to the rear of the block.  You could use a mini flap wheel to smooth out the rest of the block and reduce the cast effect even further and a good coating of soot & steam oil will further mask the difference!  Just be glad you have a block that will work! the failure rate of the one-piece blocks was horrific and 2 hours to remove a block & two days to put one back is work no-one needs.

I am currently on my second engine that's come in for a new block. Trust me when I say removing studs and re balancing the motion to a new block is a pig.
more so on a Showmans as there is more stuff to take off. affraid

As Steve says. once its oiled up and burnt a bit you wont notice the difference. most of it is covered by other components and the side motion covers anyway.

I did the opposite on mine and used coarse sand paper the rough up the smooth the same roughness as the casting. to be honest it was a waste of time and effort as its all covered in dark oil now anyway. Unless you go caressing the block you cant tell.
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  the governer on Mon 12 Feb 2018, 10:49 pm

And I have left mine as is, I made a gasket, screwed the plate in, sprayed the block, and fitted to boiler, it will be interesting to see how noticeable the screws are when in steam.

Mark.
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Re: cylinder block rear cover

Post  Capricorn1 on Sun 11 Mar 2018, 10:07 am

Getting a good steam tight joint is more important than the cosmetic appearance.
I too made a gasket from 0.75mm jointing, and spread a thin layer of Foliac on with a paintbrush.
The engine has been steam several times now with now sign of any problems.

Give the milled face a clean up with a file and some emery cloth, once painted you'll not notice any difference.

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