engine strength

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engine strength

Post  dave granger on Mon 08 Dec 2008, 9:55 am

I should be interested to read anyones views on an idea which has been
growing stronger in my mind lately. If I am being stupid, please tell
me why.
My car is not on the road yet, but is well past playing with it under
steam and leak-curing.It has been whilst bringing it up to pressure
with the drive chain off that I have been able to experiment with the
point at which one first gently opens the regulator to turn the engine
over and exhaust all the accumulated water.By doing this at about 100
psi I can bring the engine up to a workable ( minimal condensation )
temperature without the sensation of imminent hydraulic locks. Waiting
for full 250 pressure and then doing the above is accompanied by some
worrisome noises !
Now to the point of all this: are the crankshaft and linkage failures
that have been reported the result of repeatedly having to overcome
near hydraulic lock situations on cold start-ups ?
I know some of you have fitted drain cocks, was it to overcome cold
start problems ?
Dave Granger

dave granger

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Hydraulic lock

Post  TB on Tue 09 Dec 2008, 12:43 am

I fitted drain cocks to the top and bottom of both cylinders for the sole purpose of easing hydraulic lock. When starting from cold, I open all drain cocks and with the gear in forward, just crack open the throttle, and let steam blow through. The car might inch forward a bit, but will stop when a piston hits condensation. Put the lever in reverse and do the same. Gradually open the throttle (in forward) until the engine is happy to run freely, then close the drain cocks. If at any stage the engine appears to lock up, ease the throttle and let more steam run through. As with all machinery, it is a matter of understanding what is going on and treating it with respect, and this is one of the advantages of building a machine oneself.

TB

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lock up

Post  jjtjr on Sun 03 Aug 2014, 3:32 am

I know this is an post, but here goes. The hydro lock up occurred with the 1899  loco. The thing  they did was to jack up one rear wheel and turn the wheel by hand to remove the water from the engine. The steam valve was just cracked open to let steam into the engine to warm it up, but not run it. Once the engine was warm the rear wheel was turned by hand to remove water from the engine. If any resistance was felt this meant there was water, by continuing to turn the wheel slowly the water would lift the d valve and escape out the exhaust. When all was well the wheel was let down and off you went. But if the car sat for a time the same procedure had to be done again. The early stanley guys did the same. Drain valves are a good thing, you don't have to jack up the rear but you have to still warm the engine and proceed slow so the water can escape from the drains once its all out then close the valve and off you go. What I would do is open the drain valve give a little steam as the car started to move a little the water would come out when you heard steam then close valve and go.

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Re: engine strength

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