Grease and Oils?

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Grease and Oils?

Post  busman on Tue 17 Jan 2012, 12:55 pm

I expect this has been covered before many times, but what oils and grease should I be purchasing for the future of my build ?

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Oil

Post  Dan on Wed 18 Jan 2012, 5:04 am

I get through quite a bit of this:

Morris Compound Steam Cylinder Oil T


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Oils

Post  lynnr on Wed 18 Jan 2012, 5:08 am

During my build I am using 15w40 oil to lubricate all the bits pre-assembly. Bit stickier than something like 3in1 so will stay put.
Not sure what to use in the bearings etc once the engine is alive.

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Oils

Post  Steve Traill on Wed 18 Jan 2012, 2:46 pm

I would run the engine in on any reasonable engine oil from an old 20-50 to a 10-40. With a total loss oil system that traction engines have quantity is more important than quality! (in other words don't let anything run dry) Once it's run in (say 10 rallies) switch to gear oil like EP90 as it will last a bit longer in the oil pots & still do the job. As for steam oil I just use what ever I can scrounge at rallies. I did start off buying a gallon 6 years ago and just keep topping it up when it's given as a freebee at some rallies. Some steam oil stains paintwork quite badly so it's best to wipe it off fairly regularily when it drips on the cleading unless you are going for the 'working clothes' look! Personally I like the shiney 'well cared for' look.
Keep a check on the oil pots to see they are using the oil at about the same rate. If the oil level in one is not going down it's probably due to the wick not working. It might have got chewed off in a bearing or has come out of the hole, whatever, check it out before it starts knocking!

On the full size engines some drivers use steam oil for everything mainly as with four shaft engines the flywheels runs backwards when you are driving forwards and anything thinner covers the driver in oil. With a Burrell this isn't an issue and also steam oil on a miniature seems to run a bit thick in the oil pots as there isn't enough heat generated to make it flow especially when a cold wind is blowing so gear oil I've found is best. Also on full size four shaft engines some drivers use chainsaw oil in the pots as it is very clingy & doesn't run through as quick, again it's a bit too thick for miniature tolerances, hope this helps. Steve

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Re: Grease and Oils?

Post  Tim Watson on Sun 22 Jan 2012, 12:40 am

I agree with Steve re: starting off with lowish viscosity oils. On my engine I now use 220 or even 460 ISO oil on the plain bearings. These are available from Seddon & Black. I changed from Morris to Hallets bearing oils, as the former gave me a bad case of paint staining with one type, which lead to repainting the cleading. I don't think this is an issue now.

Steam oil will discolour paintwork, so don't use it in bearings. it is always easier to clean engines when they are warm at the end of the da and I find it very relaxing - WD40 (bought in bulk, not aerosols) is good for cleaning up.

Tim

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Cleaning up

Post  Steve Traill on Sun 22 Jan 2012, 6:11 am

As Tim said WD40 is an excellant cleaner and leaves a protective residue against rust etc. Duck Oil is another product that has the same qualities only doesn't evaporate away quite so quickly. I buy it in 5 litre can and fill a hand sprayer up as needed. Works out a lot cheaper than buying aerosol cans. bounce bounce bounce

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