Frederick SRL(S)

That's the most informative post on the forum to date, Lynn summed it up perfectly..."STUNNING"!!

Congratulations on finishing your engine (?).... A considerable achievement!!

I think most of the other builders here will be in total admiration of "FREDERICK"!! & will be inspired by your patience & willingness to share skills!!

VERY WELL DONE!!

Regards,
Tony

look grate  

Well done tim looking very nice. Looking foward to seeing it in the flesh.

Tim

What a wonderful finish for your engine, raising the bar on the forum with this one. We need to see Tony King's finished and also I am keen to see what Rob does with his Ex-Mayor copy. What stunning advertisements for the STW kit and what can be done with it. A little embarrassed to post any more pictures of Blackbeard.   

Look forward to seeing Frederick at some point this year.

Brian

I keep studying the photos of Tim's lettering & I'm trying to pluck up the courage to give it a go... Phew, what an act to follow!!!

Brian, don't you dare do yourself down, that engine of yours has been one of the "centre pieces" on this forum too!! & like Kev's "his Majesty" has done more for STW... "ENGINES ON THE MOVE" type advertising than any one!!

The standards set by so many builders for so many reasons, are OUTSTANDING!!... (I love this SHOUTING on the forum!!)
A great success story all round.. A few hick ups granted... but definitely a success storey!!
Lynn, Get that printer thingy warmed up!!!
Regards,
Tony

I agree with Tony Brian don't put yourself down, you have done a great job.  Blackbeard himself would not be pleased if someone put makeup and nail varnish on him, and I am sure Blackbeard the engine if eels just the same.  Not only that but I like it as it is.

Go for it Tony, I'm sure you will do a great job also.

As mentioned previously, I added the flourishes to the central words on the canopy this weekend.



Also trimmed and fitted the rear registration plate.  Had to replace four of the bunker strap bolts with countersunk heads to allow the plate to sit against the bunker.  I was a trifle concerned that these would be weaker, (bearing in mind the stresses of the rear seat hanging off the back) but, in fact, they are probably inherently stronger in terms of stress distribution through the countersink.



Tim

As always, beautiful job Tim!!
I just haven't had the opportunity to work on my engine much recently, so am slipping way behind!!

Regards,
Tony

That sign writing really is a work of art Tim, you could go into business!! Is Frederic now officially completed?

Good grief no, Brian, I'm going to (in no particular order):

fit lamps, walk boards man stand and belly tank, warning gong, re-work electrical control panel, liner in the chimney, light under dynamo bracket for illuminating the oven, re-arrange rear seat supports and perhaps storage therein, lengthen steering column and or steering knob, box for coal, reduce spoke sizes and bulkiness on the steering and brake wheels, consider remote regulator linkages (still), fit hind wheel drive pin cotter pins, fit fan to main dynamo, scale ladder for back wheel, ? bottom opening ash pan.
As well as modifications to my 'new' trailer to accommodate the wagon rather better.

Enough to be going on with?

Tim

Ah so we still have some more wonderful posts to look forward to as Frederic continues to evolve into the engine you are basing him on and you make improvements with running experience. Just one thing, will the light come on when you open the oven door and will you also include a glass panel to keep an eye on thing as they cook?   

Re: light coming on as oven door opens: I have a cunning plan...

Tim

Hello Tim,

I was browsing your photos looking for inspiration on what to paint on the gear change and saw the mods you had carried out on the change itself.

1. Has the mod to the third wheel fork worked well? was it only the inside you milled out?

2. I too have the problem with the third wheel selector fouling the rocker as it comes over, could you file the underside flat as an alternative to taking a section out of the rocker?

Thanks for your help.

Best wishes
Simon

Looking great Tim, certainly come a long way since last time I saw him.

1. Has the mod to the third wheel fork worked well? was it only the inside you milled out?
Yes, the gear change moves easily through most of the circle: probably easier because of the mod - which was only on the inside.  However, the selector does sometimes make a 'Ching, Ching, Ching' noise when the engine is out of gear and running, as the ends of the fork rattle against the rotating gear, which is just what the real thing does. I will probably put a couple of nylon grub screws across the end of the forks to quieten this, as I find it a bit irritating.

2. I too have the problem with the third wheel selector fouling the rocker as it comes over, could you file the underside flat as an alternative to taking a section out of the rocker?
It's probably six of one and half a dozen of the other.  If the underside of the selector were filed off a bit then the rocking selector might not engage it to lock it over so well.  In fact, the locking mechanism is a bit arbitrary, as you would have to be pretty dumb to try and shift the gears against one another.

The splash guard addition is certainly worth doing: it has saved a lot of cleaning up!

Tim

Thanks Tim, very prompt - you do have very nocturnal hours!

1. Mmm the fork mod is an interesting one, having looked again the way to move it is to push it at 9 & 3 o'clock so it is yawing. However may put up with it to avoid the Ching Ching .

2. Looking at the gear change again, the design is slightly flawed I think in that you have to push the lever over centre which means the lock is pushed down allowing you to engage any of the lower wheels if you want.

3. Yes will fit the splash guard, slightly annoyed that I forgot about it and painted the pivot.

Finally how much clearance has you first wheel got when using mid gear, mine is almost touching the second gear. I think if I remember correctly Lynn turned a mil or so of it?

Best wishes

Simon

Meant to say, how does the paint look on the gear levers etc, has it been chipped a lot in use?

re paint on the gear levers, I had mine black nickel plated which saved a lot of hassle, Andy had his clear nickel plate and then painted the insides, I think there is a shot on his page 7 just before we steamed. Mine have stood up to use but are showing areas of wear where there is a rubbing but can easily be replated.

The paint has stayed pretty good on the gear change, only rubbing off where bits seriously rub: e.g. under the horizontal toggle and under the locking plate. The top of the back locking bar would have lost its paint had I not reduced the left hand end to clear the high wheel lever.

Tim

Iv nickeled plated all my gear change then painted in the red bits on the locking toggle which locks first to second i placed a m5 half washer just raise it off the paint which as work very well. page 5

Frederick had a successful steam test tonight. No surprises but good to have it sorted!

Tim

I have at last extended the steering rod on 'Frederick' by about 1.25".  This should make it a good deal easier to drive, but isn't too far away from the flywheel to be ugly; certainly safer than having it a scale distance form the flywheel.  I may also extend the steering knob also by about 1/2" to make it within easier reach.  My seat arrangements have the driver/steersman sitting on the left, kind of riding side saddle.  I have also worked out how to make the remote control linkage for the regulator which will also suit this seating arrangement - more of that when it's done.  



Finally I have also made some stainless steel tow pins.  These are of a shape commonly seen in Showman's:  let's hope they don't get nicked at GDSF!



Apologies for the fuzzy photos: the iPhone camera has problems

Tim

Hello Tim,

I am interested in the mod you did for the axle boxes, could you explain a little more - I couldn't quite follow the idea?

Best wishes
Simon

I think its as simple as silver soldering a length of copper pipe over the area where the oil tube goes to save filling the entire box with oil which will result in a large amount leaking out over time all over the floor the engine is stood on due to being a total loss system. An alternative is to do as Andy and I have done and add a second oiler on each side of the backhead with a 5/32 tube feeding down to the oil tube in the box allowing easier filling and a smaller reservoir.