Boiler cladding advice needed

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Boiler cladding advice needed

Post  Brian M on Fri 25 Nov 2011, 3:33 pm

OK!

Having walked away from the engine for a second time in one week, I can safely say doing a dry run of adding the boiler cladding has been the least enjoyable part of the build.

Unfortunately, Darwin’s theory in evolution did not extend to six armed humans trying to hold three pieces of cladding, whilst trying to fit a brass band (which appears too small) Evil or Very Mad to an M6 bolt (which could be a little longer) Evil or Very Mad whilst trying to move a band out of the way of a cylinder block (that appears too wide for the gap) Mad which it is supposed to fit (between the end of the cylinder and the exciter brackets).

I have cut each piece of the cladding to fit. After fine adjustments to the first two sections, they went together, Very Happy but the third (final) section refuses to play. And another question, how will I get the bolts in to the belly tank bracket after the cladding has been fitted (as the gap has been reduced considerably)??

For all those budding engineers with minds far greater than mine, how did you attached the final section of boiler cladding?

(It is not even painted yet)

Thank you in advance, a very tired, frustrated, browbeaten What a Face and defeated person Sad

Brian M

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Re: Boiler cladding advice needed

Post  highpressure on Sat 26 Nov 2011, 1:10 am

Hi Brian,

I'm not going to be able to give advice just sympathy as it was this that lead me to post the "I can honestly say I hate building this thing" quote just before Dorset. I didnt enjoy this bit at all, I have alterered the lagging on mine to wood to try and reduce the amount under the cleading to allow the bands to close up easier, I feel the steel rings push the cleading out to the absolute edge of where all the things fit and make it just that bit more difficult, I have had to take the wood to the sander to reduce its depth since to help ease the fitting. Its about 7mm in depth and 20mm wide strips, varying lengths depending where its fits. I dont have the cleading on at the mo as I'm still lining but could take a picture if it helps to explain.

Of course just to cheer you up you'll look forward to taking it all off again for the boiler inspector possibly when you need the first ticket and almost certainly in future inspections Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Twisted Evil Twisted Evil

Kev.

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Cladding and brass bands

Post  lynnr on Sat 26 Nov 2011, 2:59 am

Hi Brian

This is not a definitive method but my successful method.

Fit cladding at spec plate end. I cut 2 slots (width of a hacksaw blade) up the edge of the tabs that go down the side of the firebox infront of the hornplates. The cut went right up to the 2 fitting bosses on the boiler. Next I cut a half shape out of the cladding where the back boss of the flywheel axil goes. The shape is the top half of the back bracket for the brake casting.

Next
Front 3 cladding pieces.
I removed the 2 tabs of each of the front cladding pieces as the fill in panel on the top between the exciter platform covers from the smokebox all the way to the cylinder. This would mean there being 2 layers of cleading holding the front band above the profile of the smokebox. I cut the tabs so there is about 2mm left on them. The brass band that goes between the cylinder and the exciter brackets I needed to do 2 notches to allow it to fit without sitting on the cylinder flange.

I had to trim about 1mm off the insert under the exciter to allow fit.

For fitting I used masking tape over the top to hold the 2 parts in a clam fashion then a bit of tape on the bottom to hold them in place. In preperation I over bent the brass bands so they hold the correct diameter when offered up to the boiler. Also to hold the band while inserting the bolt I used a LARGE "C" mole grip, type used by welders. This allowed me to pull the tabs together to then slip the bolt in. (Clamping to the edge of the band to allow space for the bolt). The band between the exciter and cylinder leave slightly loose.


Fit the cladding around the weightshaft casting with the bottom edges butted up to each other. There will be overlap at the top but is hidden below the motion. You need the lower joint to be flat as the gap between the belly tank with the brass bands on is very snug. Use masking tape either side of the weightshaft casting to act as a clam shell hinge. Fit the brass band round at the firebox end.

The under cylinder cladding
First fit the belly tank to boiler bracket, Leave bots loose and the rear brackets. Fit the belly tank and tighten the boiler bolts up, with your prefered thread sealer/locker. Remove belly tank. At this point I had to open up the slot in the cladding piece to allow good fit over the belly bracket. I also had to elongate the slot to allow it to sit flat against the spacers. The front edge of the cladding piece butts up to the front pieces. Loosen off the band and fit the part. You will know when it fits correctly as there may be a gap between the cladding and cylinder flange on both sides. But the gap should be even.

Finally fit the brass band over the joint behind the cylinder, the cledding here will overlap the cledding around the weightshaft.

I managed, by myself, to fit the cladding without scratching once the parts were all trimmed in about 30 minutes.

Hope this helps.


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Re: Boiler cladding advice needed

Post  highpressure on Sat 26 Nov 2011, 6:15 am

I could have been more helpful by suggesting the tape method as I have used that succesfully myself so I will recommend it, use either masking tape or insulation tape to hold the cleading in place taping the two pieces at the top, at least then you have a hand spare to try and pull the band together. I also rope in my son to put the nut on the bolt once I have it in place so I just have to squeeze the ends together and feed the bolt in. I havent worried about the piece above the belly tank as It wont be seen, there is the wooden lagging there to reduce the heat transfer to the tank.

By the way dont do what I did and try to put the cleading on with the belly tank in place, if you didnt like it without you really will HATE it with it in place, especilly if its been painted and you are hoping not to scratch it!!!!!!

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Fitting the cleading

Post  Steve Traill on Sun 27 Nov 2011, 12:59 pm

Lynns got the idea, I tear off 6" pieces of either masking tape or insulation tape (slightly less sticky depending on how confident you are with the hardness of your paint)and have about 10 of them hanging off the edge of a table ready to use. Also put some towels down or old bits of carpet so if one does drop it'll hopefully not get damaged. Basketball

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Re: Boiler cladding advice needed

Post  Brian M on Tue 29 Nov 2011, 2:23 pm

Hello All,

Thanks for the advice, I have attached the kit to the engine, great tip about the masking tape, which will come next (thanks).

Maybe we should have a new thread on this forum of 'best practices' - kit 1.....and so on?

All the best (onwards and upwards Very Happy )

Brian

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Re: Boiler cladding advice needed

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