2" Burrell Kit 21

Hi All

There is indeed a problem with the M4 screw supplied for the water pump ram. It is far too short. Longer oners have been ordered and should be with us on Tuesday. We'll post them out as soon as we get them.

There may also be a problem with the bypass valve O ring. This is only intended as a 'belt and braces' addition to the gland packing. Try putting a small chamfer on the end of threaded portion to try helping it enter the bore. I'll have a look at it this weekend and update the forum accordingly.

Jo's already mentioned that you can use the alignment tool supplied with the water gauges if you want to air test your engine. The one hole I have forgotten about is the 3/16" x 40 in the top of the cylinder intended for the oil check valve. I'll try to get this check valve sorted for the next kit.

Regards

Steve

p.s. I'll get some pictures of Deans bending and post them on the forum. Be warned though, it's not a pretty sight

THANKS FOR THAT INFO STEVE, AS FOR PIC'S OF DEAN BENDING, I'VE SEND SOME BAD SIGHTS IN MY TIME, BUT NOT SURE I'M READY FOR THAT !!!!!!!!!!!

BACK TO THE KIT, ON THE CHECK VALVES (AND INDEED THE WATER PUMP) ISO21D AND THE G.A. DRAWINGS BOTH SHOW SMALL HANDLES THAT GO ON THE SQUARES, ARE THESE TO FOLLOW IN ANOTHER KIT ??

REGARDS
BUNGLE

Hi Bungle

I'm sure Dean will get his own back, but I have to say that the vision of Deans bending is almost enough to put you off your beer (almost but not quite).

There will be some handles. The masters are done and we are just awaiting delivery of the lost wax castings. Should be in for the next kit despatch.

Regards

Steve

I'm sure Dean will get his own back, but I have to say that the vision of Deans bending is almost enough to put you off your beer (almost but not quite).

Steve,

Drink the beer first things always look better through "beer glasses" even Dean's hairy butt!!

Are you guys on about bending the pipes ???????????
Or am I missing it ./..
AS I now have been in my shead roof and got it all down
I gees I need more beer..See you soon i hope

Couldnt wait, after 2 years nearly, needed to see it runnung on its own

Used the water gauge guide cut down to block the glass water level gauge with a bit of cardboard to block off the bottom hole and loads of plumbing tape to block the top,
Found a srew to block off the oiler hole on top of the cylinder
Used blue tack and made a washer to cover the vent on the right hand side of the cylinder block - that bit wasn't mentioned in Steves comments and connected to compressor, after getting up to pressure couldn't work out why it wouldn't run then realised to open the throttled you pull back on the regulator, did that and off it went like a banshee warrior. BRILLIANT!

kept it running for about 1/4 hour and pouring oil down top of cylinder to keep piston lubricated and well chuffed.

Slightly tight but am sure it will loosen up

seems quite happy at about 40psi to run well anyone else got theirs going yet?

Alan





.

Hi Big Al.

Great to read you've got your engine running on air,as for mine we are in the middle of festival season,Download Festival last weekend ,and the Sonisphere Festival coming up ,so I'm saving as much cash as I can,so I wont be buying a compressor until late August.When I do,I'll be running as well.

Do you have any video of your engine running?

cheer's Tony

Hi Guys
WELL DONE sound good As for me well you know just got to leave it for a bit

Hi All

I can confirm something that many of you already know, the O ring supplied for the bypass valve is too big. Proper ones are on order and will be sent out as soon as they arrive. (should only take a couple of days). We'll post these out with the longer screw.

Regards

Steve

HI all well now I am getting some were .IE not caving or beeing away here are some pics for you to giggel at of my roof and what has happend..
First for smoe reason that is beond me 3 ducks DIVE BOMDed the roof pluss a BIG stick went through the roof.
The pick show were thay did this but I have coverd up the blood and things in black.
Good job that the door opens out all the thing to fix it are now here just need good wether

All the insloshon is now out
HO F a mess and yes the dimm thing are lights.
Well good luck to one and all

Hello Steve and Dean,

Would it be possible to give us an update with regards to the replacement 4BA countersunk screw and the replacement O ring for the waterpump as untill I recieve these parts I am at a standstill.
Thank you.

Malcolm

Hi Malcolm,

Both Steve & I were under the impression they had been sent out at the end of last week. It's only when we checked yesterday that we realised they were still sitting in packing!

They will be sent out first class mail today.

Dean

Hi everyone

has anyone got any ideas on how to do up the bottom nut on the water pump rod to the eccentric?
I've tried several ways including small child with small hands,but still no success.

Thanks Tony

Reference the above I found that by not fitting the waterpump body to the hornplates turn the crank so that the eccentric of the pump is almost at the bottom then by lifting the pump up so the rod fouls the top of the space in the rear spec plate and with the piston on its extended stroke you can get a socket screwdriver through the gap in the spec plate and do the nut up
The bigger problem was the lower mounting screws, the one nearer the front was a nightmare but I found that by screwing a stud from the outside of the hornplate ensured the pump was lined up and by slightly tapering the bolt supplied I managed to get the thread started.
If I ever have to take it apart I think it will be easier to remove the left hand hornplate!!!!

Now it's fitted I have no idea how I am going to take the left hand oil filler cap off from the axle shaft, can hardly see it let alone remove it!

Alan

I used virtualy the same method to fit the nuts holding the pump rod to the eccentric but I put some BlueTack into the end of the nut runner to hold the nut in place untill it had started onto the studs,this saves hunting for dropped nuts.
I did not have any problems with the bolts into the hornplate but I fitted the top ones first,I then used a tapered pin to locate the bottom holes, and tightened the top bolts. The bottom bolts then went in without too much difficulty but I did use an allen key on which both legs were of the same length ie: about 2" which gave me room to get my large awkward fingers in.

Malcolm